Discovering Khlong Phanom National Park
A path less trodden
Located just 15 minutes away from Khao Sok, Khlong Phanom National Park is Thailand's hidden gem. Often overshadowed by popular neighbouring parks, Khlong Phanom is the path-less-trodden. It promises a serene landscape, rich biodiversity and dramatic cliff scenery. Forget Tarzan and Indiana Jones - this one is for the real explorers looking to discover ancient caves, scale new heights and paddle rocky waters.
Escape crowded tourist hotspots and see the real side of the jungle with a visit to one of the most fascinating private national parks in all of Thailand.
Getting started:
Khlong Phanom National Park consists of 400 km square of karst mountains, craggy limestone peaks, biological wonders and vital marshlands. With 80% of the land made up of hills, the park is the perfect place for guided hiking. I chose to go with Our Jungle House which included a mix of trekking, caving and kayaking, as well as lunch included. With pick-up time from 9:00 am, the tour aims to end early afternoon. (Note: be prepared as Thai Time can result in a little later finish than expected!)
My group consisted of an adventurous family with kids around 12 and 13, as well as a nature-enthusiast couple. This tour is one for those who have good fitness and balance; the hike is steep and an ascending climb about 200 meters above the ground. While not recommended for kids below the age of 10, it's a great challenge for older children to let loose some energy. Just make sure to wear sturdy shoes, bring mosquito repellent and be ready to sweat!
After a short car ride from Our Jungle House, we arrived at the entrance to Khlong Phanom. We paid the park fee (100 baht for adults and 50 for kids) and headed to the starting point for our climb at Wat Tam Pla Cave temple. Here we met our guides, plus their sidekick dog, Dum Dum.
Safe to say, one look at these guides and I knew I was in for an adventure. Dressed in cool camouflage, dripping in gear and equipped with a cheeky sense of humour, the experienced rangers quickly distilled a sense of security and confidence within us all. Like all the local guides provided on these tours, they certainly know their stuff.
Taking the climb:
Surrounded by tumbling Liana vines, luscious orchids and grandeur cliff faces, we began our hike. The lofty trees did a grand service providing shade for us against the scorching sun as we carefully clambered around their bulky trunks and crunched over their fallen leaves. Luckily, there were plenty of small ladders and ropes tied along the cliff to help pull us up in a style that would give the local monkeys a run for their money. The guides did a brilliant job of pointing out the best route forward and were there to steady us if we lost our balance.
The thrum of crickets and exotic bird calls chimed through the thick, humid air. Now and then, our guides pointed out striking endemic plants and explained that you may be able to find the biggest flower in the globe, the Rafflesia Kerri, with its gigantic rouge petals splayed out on the forest floor in Khlong Phanom national park.
After 40 minutes or so with various breaks, we were all out of breath and in awe of Dum Dum as he showed off running and leaping through the foliage. It's fair to say the hike was a challenge and will certainly burn off some of those pesky Pad Thai calories. But of course, it was all worth it, especially when we found ourselves at the top of the trek, staring into the gigantic, black abyss of the Tam Gao cave.
Journey to the centre of the earth:
65 million-years-old, Tam Gao, otherwise known as peat cave, is 400 meters deep and was once inhabited by indigenous mountain tribes. Their spirit is still there, with neolithic scratching ingrained on the walls offering a glimpse into the Earth's ancient past.
As we entered the mystical cave, we were instantly hit by the cooler air and felt a calm ambience settle over us. Like being transported back in time, we climbed through the cave's various shadowy hallways and cathedral-like chambers. We used headlights to light up shimmering stalactites and geological masterpieces. Welcome to a world of dark delights, where layers of coral rock flower outwards in huge petals of red, gold and amber, and flowstones cascade down like waterfalls frozen in time.
Apart from the odd resilient creepy crawly and peacefully slumbering bat, we had the entire cave to ourselves. Marvelling at the eerie quietness of the cave, we took our time to appreciate its majestic and ethereal beauty before returning outside, back to the modern world, with a newfound sense of perception clinging to us.
Beyond the banks:
After scaling down, we were treated to a lunch consisting of a bamboo-cooked buffet (with veggie options available) at a local restaurant. Refuelled and re-energized, we were driven back to Khlong Phanom's Khao Sok river to begin the next chapter of our adventure: kayaking. Be sure to bring a swimsuit and waterproof bag for valuables!
We meandered around the river loop for an hour, soaking in the living canvas of Karst mountains, bountiful river wildlife and enormous strangler fig trees guarding the bank. As the water was low, the guides helped us navigate jutting rocks and pulled us through the shallows whilst skilfully pointing out the best places to dive into the water from a rope swing.
Don't worry about getting tired, there's plenty of chance to relax between paddles and even a short coffee break on the way. Here, try some sweet Thai tea or coffee in a traditional bamboo cup. Let time slow down as you watch jewel-studded butterflies and vibrant fish dance in the river.
At the end of the kayaking trip, a car picked us up, ready to return home. With the trees of Khlong Phanom waving goodbye in the rearview mirror, we felt the spirit of the park lingering in our hearts. One for the thrill and wildlife seekers, the tour had been an eye-opening and poignant experience. Not just a destination but a sanctuary of serenity, Klong Phanom is a reservoir of natural wonders just waiting to be discovered.